Underrated Uzbekistan

Situated in Central Asia Uzbekistan is full of historic charm, warm people, and beautiful scenery. There are mountains, desert, cities and more, all waiting to be explored. A former Soviet country (which is clear to see throughout) and formally part of the Silk road there is so much that this country has to offer and I barely scrapped the surface in my resent 10 day trip.

Tashkent

The bustling capital of Uzbekistan is a modern city that is still very much in touch with it's Soviet past. It is a green clean city full of modern amenities, while still remembering it's past.

You only need a couple of days to explore Tashkent, but it shouldn't be missed. I started my exploration of Tashkent by visiting Kukeldash Madrasah. An impressive place of both studying and religious worship situated in the city centre. Even without going through into the courtyard the stunning facade is worth stopping by even if it is just for a quick photo. Through the gate you are greeted by a very quint little courtyard and more stunning buildings. If you explore the inside a little you will also find a very small calligraphy studio and some great views of the city. Since it is a very small Madrasah you only need around 15 - 20mins to fully explore it. But it is a nice little stop while exploring the city. Around 5mins walking around the corner from the Kukeldash Madrasah will bring you to the biggest market in central Asia. Churso Bazzar. With it's distinctive blue dome it is hard to miss. A place for locals to by a huge range of fresh produce and for tourists to buy souvenirs, and snacks. It is a must visit. But more on that later as i didn't visit it on my first day. Instead i explored around the market. Which is just as lively full of vendors selling bread (definitely worth buying a loaf of the slightly dense, but very tasty bread) and other food items. It is also a perfect place to start exploring the Metro. For less then £1 you can travel Tashkent's Soviet era metro throughout the city all day. Know you're probably thinking that the metro is nothing to write home about. Maybe you're imaging something like the London tube. However, although the trains themselves are nothing special the stations are works of art.  Each on is uniquely designed and it's own masterpiece. From the Kosmonaut station beautifully depicting Uzbek space exploration to ornate chandeliers, it is well worth hopping onto the metro and exploring the stations. Added bonus is that it is incredibly easy to buy a ticket with the tap of a contactless card or the purchase of a one time use QR code ticket. The last place for day one that is a must visit for anyone exploring Tashkent, is the Plov centre. Where you can witness the national dish produced on an industrial scale. With huge pots of plov being made and more importantly consumed. It has a slight chaotic energy to the place, but there is no better place to sample your first (or 100th) plate of plov.

Day 2 in Tashkent saw me start at the memorial for the earthquake of 1966,.Which destroyed most of the city causing Russia to have to rebuild much of it. Explaining a lot of the Soviet style buildings through out the city. You don't need long here around 10mins will be enough, but it is good to go and see to understand a bit more about the city. Next up I visited Churso Bazaar properly. Which is a real hub of activity. From the vendors offering you samples, the smell of spices and bread being baked and the sight of all the stalls and the size of it all, it's a real local experience while also giving you the chance to buy souvenirs. Next up on my sightseeing tour of the city was independence square and the WW2 memorial. The memorial i found particularly profound. Firstly there was a powerful statue of a mothers with an eternal flame in remembrance to those lost. Secondly and for me most profound were the 12 bronze books (1 for each region) with every name of every man who didn't return from the war (around 25% of the male population). Meaning that no one was forgotten. Again you don't need long here. Around 15mins should be enough, but in order to understand the Uzbek cost of WW2 (which i personally was unaware of) it is really important to visit. A short walk through one of the many parks in the city (around 5mins), saw me reach the proud statue of Amir Timur. A very important figure in Uzbek history. A short walk from the statute and you reach the famous hotel Uzbekistan. With it's strong soviet design it is safe to call it Uzbekistan's most famous hotel. After resting a bit it was time to briefly explore what modern Tashkent had to offer. By this i mean i visited Tashkent mall (and the supermarket located within it) and watched a lovely little light show located by the mall (which was free to attend), to finish of my time in Tashkent. 

Bukhara

With it's old town feel and charming crafts everywhere you go, Bukhara feel like one big open air museum. With trading domes that still have vendors trading to beautiful historic building situated throughout this city you can't help but fall in love with the city.

A quick hop on a train and a few hours later sees you leave Tashkent for Bukhara. A couple of days if enough to explore this wonderfully historic city. First up on my itinerary was a trip to Bolo Hauz mosque, with its highly detailed design and beautiful decor it is a gem within the city. You only need around 20mins to fully explore the mosque and take photos of it's splendour. Just be mindful that it is a working mosque and dress and behave accordingly. Next up a quick crossing of the road brought me to the very imposing Ark fortress. To full get the benefits of this grand structure i would recommend getting a local guide who can explain the history and this truly enriches the visit. Within the fortress you will find ruins, 2 small museums and some of the best views of the city. To full explore this site I would recommend giving your self around 1 hour and it is certainly one of the historical highlights of the city.

Day 2 started of with a visit to Magoki Attori mosque. Which with it's spacious courtyard and swifts darting around had a real tranquil feel. Which is a pleasant escape from the noise of the city. The building itself is like so many across the city, simply stunning (i couldn't get enough of this beauty). You don't need long here around 45 mins at most would probably be enough time. Next I then spent the time visiting some of the numerous local crafts people. Bukhara is bursting at the seems with talented people doing their traditional crafts and who are keen to share that craft with others. So make sure you leave yourself enough time to explore some. The first of my stops was to a carpet workshop, where woman were making a range of rugs by hand. They explained the different materials used and the amount of time and labour involved it making the array of rugs i could see. Next up via a quick visit to Kalon minaret and mosque (only 5 mins needed and isn't really worth going in as all of it's beauty is on the outside), was a quick visit to an old style spice shop that was full of colour and strong with the armour of the spices. I would stroungly recomend visiting a spice stand/shop while in Uzbekistan. The vendors will explain the spices to you and they are easy to find through out Uzbekistan. The last crafts place I visited was a blacksmith who as well as making a huge array of knifes also made the traditional scissors of Bukhara (in the shape of a stork) and was able to explain it all to us. After a bite to eat, it was time for a visit to Ulugbek madressa and Lyabi-Hauz plaza. Which are both gorgeous areas to visit which you can take your time to explore. Last up was a quick showing of the cities Synagogue and explanation of the cities Jewish history, which in found interesting.

Before leaving Bukhara i had time for one more stop. The summer palace. Another place where it really adds to the experience to have a local knowledgeable guide. But even with out one you can admire the grandeur and luxury of the place (it even has peacocks, which just adds to this feeling).Each room was lavishly decorated and full of stunning items. You need around 1 hour to fully explore the summer palace, but it is well worth a visit. The last thing before leaving Bukhara was a quick visit to a very well persevered 900ish year old mosalium. Which was incredibly detailed and stunning to look at. Overall Bukhara is a history lovers dream, and the jewel in Uzbekistans varied landscape.

EXTRA for surrounding area: A couple of hours driving outside of Bukhara you will find an incredible ceramics workshop. Which is currently being run by the 7th generation of the same family. You can learn the history of the workshop, watch and learn about their traditional technique. A great way to used up a couple of hours

Samarkent

Full of grandeur and elegance this city has a real feel of luxury, while still being very affordable. Stunning architecture along side local markets and green spaces, means that you find just about anything you need here.

You need a couple of days to explore this grand city. I started of my exploration with Samarkent's most famous site. Rajistan square. With it's 3 stunningly beautiful grand facades all facing in on themself, it really is a site to behold. I would recomend having a guide to explain each one's unique history, but even if the history doesn't appeal to you the amazing buildings are well worth a visit. They are easily among the most stunning in Uzbekistan (and there are many stunning buildings). Each of the 3  facades leads to it's own court yard, museums and craft stalls among other things. If there is just one thing to see in Samarkent this is it. You need around 1 hour to full explore the area and don't forget to check out the little vendors located inside. You will find ceramics, musical instruments and more. Just watch out for some very low doors. I returned in the evening to Rajistan square to watch the light show. Which was amazing. It is hard to imagine the buildings becoming more beautiful, but that is what happened. The light show is only around 15mins, but is completely free. So make sure to get there early to get a good spot.

I started of my final day in Samerkent with a visit to Shakh-L-Zinda. An amazingly elaborate avenue of mausoleums, that put some of the buildings in the city to shame in their elegance. Everywhere you look you are greeted with beautiful facades leading to a number of tombs,. So much so that at first your not quite sure where to look. And the crown in this crown is the tomb which is said to contain the remains of a cousin to the great prophet Mohammed. Making it an important religious site and also has a working mosque, so dree appropriately. You need around an hour to full explore this wonder and you do need a guide to fully understand everything that you are looking at. However, it is a must see and should not be skipped. I then took a short walk to Hazrat Khizr mosque. Which although nice, it's only draw is a great view of the city. So it can be skipped if your short on time. Next up was a visit to Bibi-Khanum mosque. Which has one of the most compelling stories of all the mosques. So i would highly recommend you have a guide take you there who knows the story of Bibi-Khanum. The building itself is beautiful and charming and you only need around 30mins to explore as it is relatively small. While in the area of the Bibi-Khanum mosque you will find the local market. Which in really enjoyed visiting. It is not a hugely overwhelming market like you often find, but a happy mix between locals buying everyday goods and tourists buying souvenir's. You can still smell spices and teas but don't feel overwhelmed by noise and chaos. So it is quite nice if you like the idea of bazaars but find them chaotic. After getting a bite to eat i had time for one more stop on my site seeing tour. The tomb of Amir Timar. A key figure in Uzbek and central Asian history. Having a guid who can tell his story does help here and you do have to be prepared for crowds when you get to the tomb. However it is still a beautiful site with a lovely court yard and worth seeing while in Samerkent.

Overall Samerkent is a big and grand city with even bigger and grander buildings. It is a place with an air of luxury while still feeling down to earth and affordable

 

 

Extra Information on Uzbekistan

Language: Uzbek and Russian

Weather: Varies a lot depending on time of year- Summer very hot 50+ degrees Celsius, Winter gets snow, when i went in May the weather was pleasant around the 30 degrees mark but did get warm at times

Dress code: For the most part you can wear what you like, just make sure to dress modestly, cover heads etc when visiting religious sites such as Mosques 

Food: A very meat heavy diet (although it is possible to find vegetarian food), must try dishes are Plov, Samsa and Manti and not to forget the local bread made in tandoori ovens.

Getting around: Yandex go is a very easy way to get taxis (local equivalent to Uber) 

Currency: Local currency is the som (around 16,200 som to £1), cash is king through out the country but in big cities you can use card is restaurants etc

Kyzylkum desert: A large part of Uzbekistan and a highlight of my trip. If you get the chance to spend a night here in a yurt it is worth doing. And the wildlife if great with wild tortoises and prairie dogs to name a couple.

Nataru mountains: Another top experience is staying in a guesthouse in the mountains. If you can't get enough of stunning landscapes and warm hospitality this is the place for you.